Kirindy Forest

Two hours by track north-east of Morondava, the Kirindy forest reserve protects one of the last great tracts of dry deciduous forest in western Madagascar — trees that shed their leaves in the dry season, letting low light slant between the baobabs. Long monitored by research teams, the forest has become the reference site for wildlife that is hard to see anywhere else, starting with the island's largest carnivore.

What to see at Kirindy

Kirindy is first and foremost the realm of the fossa, a long-bodied carnivore distantly related to mongooses, sitting at the top of Madagascar's food chain. Used to people around the camp, fossas show themselves here with an ease found nowhere else in the country. By day the forest belongs to Verreaux's sifakas, which cross the clearings in sideways leaps as though dancing, and to red-fronted brown lemurs.

But it is the night walk that leaves the deepest impression. Head torches pick out Madame Berthe's mouse lemur, the world's smallest primate, small enough to sit in a cupped hand, the red-tailed sportive lemur watching from its hollow trunk, and the vositse or giant jumping rat, a rabbit-sized rodent found only in the Menabe.

Practical tips

The reserve has simple accommodation deep in the forest (bungalows and campsites), worth booking ahead in high season: it is the only way to join the night walk, which sets off at dusk with a guide. Bring a head torch, long sleeves and insect repellent.

One thing to know so you aren't disappointed: at the height of the dry season several species go into torpor and become scarce — mouse lemurs in particular. If nocturnal wildlife is the goal, aim for the end of the year. Kirindy fits naturally into a loop from Morondava, with the Avenue of the Baobabs on the way and, for the more adventurous, the track to the Tsingy de Bemaraha.