A forest of blade-sharp limestone pinnacles, a UNESCO World Heritage site reached after two days on the tracks from Morondava.
In Malagasy, "tsingy" means the ground you cannot walk on barefoot — and it takes only one look to understand why. Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park protects a limestone plateau that rain has carved over millions of years into needles, ridges and deep canyons. A UNESCO World Heritage site since 1990, this massif in western Madagascar shelters, within its crevices, plants and animals that evolved in near-isolation, including several lemurs and reptiles found nowhere else.
Western Madagascar, Melaky region. The park entrance is at Bekopaka, north of Morondava.
From April–May to November. The park closes during the rainy season (December to March), when the tracks become impassable.
Two days by 4x4 from Morondava via Belo-sur-Tsiribihina, including river crossings by ferry. The Avenue of the Baobabs lies along the way.
4 to 5 days in total from Morondava, including 2 days on site to cover both circuits.
The park offers two very different circuits. The Petits Tsingy (Little Tsingy), suitable for everyone, wind between the pinnacles on built-up trails and give a first taste of this improbable landscape. The Grands Tsingy, including the celebrated Andamozavaky circuit, are another matter entirely: ladders, footbridges strung over chasms and via ferrata sections lead to viewpoints overlooking an endless forest of stone blades.
The third highlight, the Manambolo gorges, is travelled by pirogue between limestone walls tens of metres high, punctuated by caves once used as burial sites. As for wildlife, watch for the snow-white Decken's sifaka, the red-fronted brown lemur, and tiny chameleons perched on the low branches.
Visits are only possible with a park guide, booked at the Bekopaka entrance along with the Madagascar National Parks entry fee. A harness is provided for the Grands Tsingy, but bring sturdy closed shoes: the rock is razor-sharp. Expect several hours of walking per circuit, with easy but exposed climbing — you need reasonable fitness, and it is not advisable if you suffer from vertigo.
Carry plenty of water and a hat: there is no shade among the pinnacles and the heat of the west is crushing at midday. The trip is organised from Morondava, and the road passes the Avenue of the Baobabs — worth timing for sunset on the way back.
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